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    Peddars Way and Norfolk Coastal Path


Distance: 93 miles
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Way-marking: Excellent
Trails:


Straight dirt road on the Peddars Way, Beach, dunes and some rock walking on the Norfolk Coastal Path.
Lodging Styles: English B&Bs
Best Season: Spring and Fall
Highlights:

Old-fashioned seaside resorts. Doesn't draw a lot of Americans (I consider this a plus).


The Peddars Way long-distance footpath, located in the lonely countryside of eastern England, follows an ancient Roman road which “casts a spell of antiquity over the walker along much of its distance.” Combined with the Norfolk Coast Path with which it connects at the North Sea, the walk is a moderate 93 miles of undulating farmland, heath, sand dunes, pine trees, and long stretches of sandy beach.

It is an excellent long-distance trail to cut your teeth on; easy to moderate in difficulty, extremely well marked, and easy to adjust to your own specific time frame and ability. Along the Norfolk coast, the Coastal Hopper bus line runs frequently between the small resorts, making it easy to stay in one place and use the bus at the beginning and end of your hike. You don’t even have to carry a lunch, as the trail passes near several small old-fashioned resort towns, where you can enjoy a picnic lunch topped off with lavender breads and scones.

Most all long-distance paths in England are served by a variety of bed and breakfast establishments, including guesthouses, farms, small country pubs, and inns. When booking, keep in mind that not all rooms in a B&B have their own bath. A room with a bath inside the room is called ensuite. A room with private bath means that your own bath is nearby. Shared means that your room may possess a wash basin, but the bathroom is shared among one or two other bedrooms. With more and more foreign visitors, ensuite rooms have become increasingly popular.

Another enjoyment of an English B&Bs is the tea and coffee facility. Your room will have an electric pot to heat water, China tea cups, and a tray with tea, coffee, cream and sugar, and if you’re lucky, hot chocolate and homemade cookies.

Unless otherwise stated, all B&Bs offer a full English breakfast. You can start with juice and an assortment of cold cereals. Your hot plate arrives with a fried egg, bacon, sausage, mushrooms, tomato, and possibly baked beans and black pudding (the later we always declined). Add a rack of toast, butter, and homemade marmalade, and, of course, tea or coffee, and you are stuffed and ready to waddle out the door. At this point you may think the only reason we hike is so we can eat. You’re right. Well, it may not be the only reason, but it definitely ranks high on the list. David says, “Some people go to fat farms- we don’t bother. We just hike and eat and hike and eat.”

The Norfolk Coast Path ends in the lovely seaside town of Cromer where you can end your walking vacation with a special stay at The Captain’s House. Only two rooms are offered and booking must be done ahead. There is an ensuite room at the back of the house, but I recommend the room overlooking the sea with private bath. Country-style pine furniture and wispy blue and white printed curtains and bedspread give the room a feel of comfortable elegance. But the best part is the window; large and low, so you can lie on the bed and look out at the waves lapping on the shore. Add a golden sunset on the pier after dinner and you’ve found the perfect end to your hiking adventure.

British hospitality is exceptional, especially at these small establishments. After a long day on the trail, I was greeted by a man who said, “I knew you’d be tired, so I saved you the room with a tub. Thought you might fancy a soak.” Now that’s the way I like to be greeted; by someone who’s looking out for my welfare. I don’t normally look for a tub, but the power of suggestion was too strong. David went downstairs for a pint– I fancied a soak.
 

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