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Distance: | 190 miles |
| Difficulty: | More Difficult to Strenuous |
Way-marking:
| Fairly good, but you will need to follow your map closely. |
Trails:
| Mostly mountain trails, some pavement in the middle.
| | Lodging Styles: | English B&Bs |
| Best Season: | Late spring or early summer.
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Highlights:
| This hike offers the most "bang for your buck". Three distinct and beautiful areas, solid hiking, and charming towns. Also, a great beginning and end.
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Joyce and Bob Hamblin sat across from me in my office. The glow on their faces and shine  in their eyes belied their 72 years. For three hours they talked, both at the same time, hands flying through the air. They had traveled before, but this trip was different. This time they walked.
The Hamblins set out in late August on the English Coast to Coast footpath beginning on the shores of the Irish Sea, then stretching 190 miles across the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales, the North York Moors, and eventually to the shores of the North Sea. This was not a backpacking experience. Each day of hiking was followed by an intimate B&B where a warm welcome, a cold beer, a hot shower, a hearty meal in the pub, and the comfort of sheets were waiting. Accommodations were pre-booked with Discovery Travel in England who also transferred their extra baggage to the next night’s destination. All they had to carry during the day was a daypack.
Back in July we had spent several days getting them outfitted with the best lightweight wicking materials and talking about what to expect since David and I had walked the trail in 1998. To tell you the truth, I was a bit skeptical. I have done 10 long-distance paths in England and the Coast to Coast is definitely not one to cut your teeth on.
Sure, they had trained by walking about 350 miles, but they were still  72 years of age and English trails aren’t as easy as you might think. Paths go straight uphill without the advantage of switchbacks. There’s mud, rain, side-hill walking, cow pies, and pools of sheep stuff, all of which can try the patience of even the most experienced hiker. It would be a shame if after so much work and expectation, they quit. So after going over their route plans, I gave them a page of advice telling them how to get through the tough parts, what not to miss, and where to skip ahead.
Now here they were, lit up a like a couple of Christmas trees. Not only had they made it – they had loved it!
Having the right gear was key. “I remember a day when as we started to leave; it was pouring outside” said Joyce. “Our English hostess was apologizing about the weather. But it occurred to me that I wasn’t concerned at all. I knew I had the right clothing and gear in my pack. I knew I could do it.”
Washing their laundry, especially the wicking layers against the skin, every night when  they took their shower was important to keeping their “life on the trail” under control. That way, the few pieces of clothing they took were always ready to go. “I wore the same orange travel shirt every night,” laughed Bob. “It didn’t matter since every night I was in a different place.” The English were impressed as well, stating that Bob and Joyce had the least amount of luggage of any Americans they had ever met.
With all their gear needs taken care of, all Bob and Joyce had to do was negotiate the trail and find their B&B for the night. Bob admitted that his first reaction was– oh my, what have I gotten into. But by the third day a routine was established and he learned to take it one day at a time. “In fact,” said Bob, “ if you had asked me during the day where we were going, I could probably tell you where we were headed that night. But tomorrow? I’d think about that tonight after I’d had a hot shower and a drink.”
Although it was decided early on that the main objective was to complete the walk without any serious mishaps, they were concerned at first about the slowness of their pace. “We never passed anyone unless they were walking the route in the opposite direction, but were constantly passed by others going our way” said Bob. However, this slower pace worked well as they completed the walk according to schedule without any problems or even blisters. A younger walker they had met on the trail, after receiving a CD with all their pictures, remarked that he was so intent in getting from point A to point B that he never took the time to “stop and smell the roses” like Bob and Joyce. He said next time he won’t make the same mistake.
For those of us who have enjoyed a long-distance footpath, we know the contrast of experiences. You walk into town dirty and tired, just like you would from a hike in RMNP. But within minutes you are transported into a world of pink wallpaper, frilly curtains, and delicate tea cups. “I’m not a china or doily kind of person”, said Joyce, “but I was totally enamored with the beautiful plates and tea cups.” Your experiences with people are different as well, maybe, because you’re vulnerable, you need more help than someone who arrives in a car. “Even the guys who transferred the luggage left notes pinned to our packs giving us valuable information for the day ahead.” recalled Joyce with a smile.
Then there’s that feeling when it all comes together; the anticipation of the trail ahead, the accomplishment of the trail behind. Physically you reach a point where it just doesn't get any better. “I’ve only experienced that a few times in my life,” said Bob, “ but once was on this trail as we neared the last few days. It was a total high that took me two weeks to come down from.”
For Joyce, the memories are something to go over and over. “When I can’t sleep, I go over everyday in my mind. It’s so wonderful, only, it makes me mad when I fall asleep and don’t finish the trip.”
So what’s ahead for these two? Could it be the Alsacian wine country or Germany’s Black Forest. Rumor has it they’re looking at The Dales Way in England or Offa’s Dyke in Wales for the spring.
I’m just hoping they’ll be celebrating their 80th birthdays on the trail.
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