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David's Notes on France
FRANCE FALL 2008
GR 52A
Phebe and I decided to do the 52A since we had never been to Southern France. Our friend Rich Edwards went along with us for the first 2 weeks. I have included a chart of our time, high and low points, total ascent and descent and number of laps each day. A lap is where you have a difference of 300 feet between the up and down in elevation. The interesting part to me was that we met or shortened the time up but our down was very slow according to the book. Maybe this was because we stopped and looked at the beauty that was surrounding us. I have never seen fall colors so vivid and striking. I won’t go into details on the trip but just a few favorites. I must mention that we never had a bad place to stay or a bad meal.
In Nice we stayed at the Hotel Compte in the upper part of town. Close to the train station we truly enjoyed the setting and friendliness of the staff. On last night before we headed to Alsace we again stayed with them and ate at the Restaurant Le Gambetta. I had Moules and actually got a second helping. Great Place to eat!
In the town of Fontan we stayed and ate at the Hotel terminus. The proprietor reminded me of a hard working individual that liked his work. Two weeks from his vacation he was outstanding in his service to us. I truly appreciate people that work hard and enjoy building up their own businesses by offering quality service.
In Sospel we stayed at the Hotel de France. We took a taxi up to Le Moulinet and walked back to Sospel. On the second night we had the privilege to eat at the Restaurant Le Picoune. We found it to be a gourmet establishment with well priced food and wine.
The following night we stayed at perhaps our favorite place, the Hotel Le Yeti at Camp d’Argent, a mile from col De Turini. From the col we actually had a guide chein takes us to the Hotel. He kept going ahead and then turning around and waiting for us to catch up. The proprietress served us beer when we got there so we could enjoy the views from the deck. We were the only ones there except for the group of men that had Moules for dinner. Lots of historical artifacts in the mountain lodge style restaurant. A fire was going in the fireplace and the cat curled up in the open chair next to us while we ate a delicious meal.
In St-Martin-Vesubie we stayed and ate at the Hotel La Bonne Auburge. Our waitress was an English woman who had married a Frenchman from the village. She gave us a lot of information as to the village and what lay ahead. Great rooms and wonderful food in served in a beautiful restaurant.
We then started to have difficulty in finding lodging. We finally found a place over the col in Saint Dalmas at the Chambre d’Hote Les Cytises. We found out that the home had been built by a Neurosurgeon from New York. The present owner of the house was from St Martin and he was the local dentist. We ate at the local Pizzeria La Balma with most of the town. The next day we could go on as there was no lodging available since it was a week end and already booked. Our host then took us on a tour of the surrounding area and told us of its history. Seems at one time it had been a part of Italy until 1918.
GR4
After Rich left us when we up to Grasse and caught a bus to Pt Sublime, the Grand Canyon of France known as the Gorges du Verdon. We stayed in a Gite at the pass and it snowed that night. The next day we truly enjoyed the meandering walks in the snow to col de Plein Voir. From there it warmed up and started to drizzle lightly. Our day ended at one of the most scenic towns we ever visited, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie. Hidden up in a mountain moraine it had views over the plains. With the help of the tourist office we were able to find accommodations for the night. What was funny was all the places he tried to send us to that were closed. It got amusing as he noted that they were supposed to be open but had decided to close. Being a heavily touristed place people do get tired and it was November.
We ended up staying at the Clerissy, a newly renovated Restaurant/Chambes in the middle of town. Run by a young couple it had excellent food and service. The room was well priced and well appointed. Often a place that has a restaurant on premises will give you a better room rate which we got at the Clerissy.
The next day we headed to Riez. This day is a typical French hiking day for us and makes us love going back to France and hike more Trails. Outside of the town of Roumoules we met a French gentleman who explained to us how to take the upper trail into Reiz instead of the road. Of course our guidebook sent us that way, but we let him help us in our directions. During the whole time it was raining and he did not have an umbrella. He waited and watched us until we got on the right path and out of site. How many Americans would go out of there way for a tourist like that? One and a half hours later when we got to Riez it turned out we had to walk back up the road toward Roumoules a mile to get to our Hotel. We were then only a mile from Roumoules. That night we ate the Restaurant La Table Toscane. Primarily a Pizzeria I had the best Moules Crème that I had ever had, yum!
A few days later we walked into the town of Manosque. It had a Hotel that you got your room key by your credit card from a machine. The desk clerks did not get there until 5:00 pm. Being early we were introduced to our first do it yourself Hotel. That night the rains came, big time rains. We walked down to the Restaurant Flunch, a cafeteria style restaurant with wine and gas water. We truly enjoy experiencing new things and fitting into their lifestyle. I wonder how many Americans have ever eaten in the Flunch in Manosque?
Gr5/ ALSACE
A few years back we had left off the GR 5 at a town called Metzeral. I have since done the GR 5 from there to Belfort where Rich had joined me and we had then gone through the Juras to Nyon, Switzerland. Since Phebe had not done it we traveled to Colmar and then on to Orbey. We then hiked over to Munster and took a short train to Metzeral. Again being November we had trouble finding a place open. Finally, we got a room at the Hotel Aux Duex Clefs. Down a road that the GR 5 took we were walking in the dark as we had “fallen” back in time. We ask a person for the Hotel and they told us about 5 more miles. Of course they meant 5 more minutes. What a delight when we finally got to our room. A delightfully appoint “large” room with space to spread out and do laundry. The meal was exceptional and very much gourmet. The next morning we got directions for a short cut that took us to the Chalet Hotel Du Grand Ballon as it was the only place open.
When I had gone through a few years back I had stayed at the Hotel Wolf in Le Markstein. A favorite place of mine it was closed for two weeks to rest before the ski season began. So we had to go 2 hours further to the Chalet Hotel Du Grand Ballon. As was what happened my first trip we were soon walking in fog. I remembered the place as I had walked out of the fog and there it was. I had gone in and had an espresso. So now I was staying there and again walking in the fog. As it got darker and the fog thicker you I began to wonder if it was actually open. Finally, I spotted lights on a hill and there it was in its entire Mountain splendor. We had a great meal and used the owner’s wireless that was not secure to do our e mails. I got up to go the bathroom around 3:00 am. Looking out the window the fog had lifted and I was greeted by the lights of all the towns in the Front Range. What a sight, so exciting I got Phebe up. At first mad, she also appreciated a truly million dollar view.
The next day we travelled on to the town of Thann. In the forest we met a ranger called Claude Giraud. He and his family had hiked in the southwest 11 times. He was truly excited to see us in his forest. His crew were thinning out some trees and planting the trees that look like fir trees but turn gold in the fall. He pointed out the next hill over and its colors of gold and green. A truly wonderful sight to see a well managed forest. This reminded me of the forests in Colorado before 1978.
The next day we were to go on to the Hotel Rouge Gazon but it was closed for two weeks. With three days left before our flight we decided to go up to Kaysersberg in the Alsace region. We have taken groups to this area and made friends with Christine who owned the Hotel Les Remparts and helped put together Horizon’s de Alsace. Phebe made us a reservation over the phone and she did not tell Christine who it was. When we showed up what a look of surprise that went over Christine’s face. We truly appreciate the friends we have made in France and their kindness they have shown towards us. We decided to take a map and just wander the area going to places we had passed but never stayed. Once you can do this you begin to understand how it all fits together.
What I have realized about Alsace is not only the beauty and history of the place but its quality. I can say it is one of my favorite places to visit and I never get tried being there. We had always passed by on our trips and decided to spend the night after walking that day. We got a room at the Auberge du Brand. My only regret is that we choose not to eat there that night. When we go back I hope we have the opportunity to stay once again and we will eat there this time.
France with over 100,000 miles of marked trails that you can do without camping and carrying 50 pounds is a long distance walker’s paradise. The laid back friendly family oriented people you meet truly allow you to rest and refresh yourself. The diversity of trails in such a small country (USA is Big) outstanding. Whether on a coastal path or in the mountains you will always be satisfied with your hiking experience. People always ask us how we find out about these trails. Go to www.francewalkingtours.com and you can get information, books and maps. What they don’t have they will get for you. Bon Soir
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